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Bridlen

Adelaide Oxford - Black - Deus Last - Founders 25

Adelaide Oxford - Black - Deus Last - Founders 25

Regular price $434.00 USD
Regular price Sale price $434.00 USD
Sale Sold out
Size
Metal Toe Taps

Please Note: UK Sizing is one size different than US sizing. For Example: UK8 = US9

Specifications

Upper leather : Weinheimer Full grain Box Calf

Lining leather : Drum dyed crust

Insole : Flexible 5 mm channeled vegetable tanned leather

Outsole : J&FJ Baker Oak bark tanned leather with a Bevelled waist and 9-10 leather stacked heel

Last : Deus Last

Construction : 360° channeled welted Goodyear

Sizing Info

The Deus Last, according to Bridlen:

(please note that for Bridlen a 'EE width' is considered a 'standard' fit)

Our most daring last, the Deus is a classic square toe with deep curves, and a wide body (EE width). The Deus is best suited to sharp styles. the Wholecut Oxford showcases the curves and shapes of this Last in all its glory. We recommend ordering a half size down from your regular size.

The Shoe Snob's Thoughts:

Length - Elongated
Width – Standard/Generous
Instep – Fitting/Standard
Mid Foot (arch) – Fitting/Standard

I do not recommend sizing down unless you have a narrow foot

Shipping Info

Shipping Timeline: The Founders 25 Line are all made to order. Each pair takes around 8 weeks to ship from India directly to the customer.

Courier Used: DHL

Liable for Import Duties? If you are based in the US, then no. What you pay on the site is all that you will pay. For those who live outside of the US, you will be liable to pay for import duties based on your country's laws from goods that ship from India to your final destination.

Shipped From: India directly to the client. Tariff free for US clients.

Return Info

Exchanges Only. No refunds. Bridlen offers one exchange per purchase. Exchange shipping fees will be the customers responsibility. Further exchanges will require additional fees.

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Founders 25 Line Review/Unboxing

The Founders Line

The Founder's Line uses shoemaking techniques which are usually followed by bespoke shoemakers adapted to a factory setting. Right from the 360-degree welt stitch to Goodyear welting directly to the leather insole.

Oak Bark Tanned Leather outsoles from FJ Baker, Limited edition Upper Leathers from the Tanneries of Zonta, Weinheimer, Du Puy, and Annonay, and with the option of adding metal toe taps.

Founders Specifications

  • LEATHER DETAILS
    Upper Leathers from the tanneries of Zonta, Annonay, Du Puy, CF Stead and Weinheimer. Full Grain Box Calf
  • SOLE DETAILS
    Oak Bark Tanned Soles 
    Metal Toe Taps Optional

  • OTHER SPECIFICATIONS
    Leather stacked heel
    8 Sole Stitches per Inch 
    Uppers at 18 - 20 Stitches per Inch
  • IN THE BOX
    Shoe bags 
    Wooden Shoe Horn

360° Channeling insole Goodyear Welted

Leather Channeling

Our shoes are stitched to a leather channel on the insole unlike most factory made shoes where it is stitched to a gemmed cotton rib.

Whole Day Comfort

  1. The thicker insole adds more stability and support to the feet resulting in a more comfortable experience even over an extended period of wear.

Sharp Feather Edge Shape

Compared to a cotton rib, a welt stitched to a leather channel in the insole sits flatter on the shoe giving it a sharper feather edge.

Quicker break-in period

  1. The combination of a thick insole and the welt sitting almost in-line with the insole, reduces the break-in period of the shoe significantly.
  • 3D Attachment

    The upper components are attached together on a last as opposed to on a flat surface. It gives definition of shape to the upper even before the lasting process allowing for lesser pressure needed during lasting. This in turn keeps the natural feeling of the leather intact and gives the overall shoes a more well defined shape.

  • Minimal Adhesives

    The 3D attachments allow for very little and weak adhesives to be used only along the edges keeping the breathability of the premium leathers intact. It allows for the leather to age more naturally over time.

  • Materials

    The seat area fits more snug to the heel as leather board counter is a more breathable and living material adding to a comfortable and good fit. The heels are stacked layer by layer and nailed top-down making for a robust yet clean, premium finish.

Features of Oak Bark Tanned Outsoles

Traditional oak-bark ground-tanning is a process involving biodegradable tanning agents such as bark and fruit.

Oak bark tanned outsoles are waterproof and extremely abrasion resistant, flexible while having structure,  comfortable to wear and break in and can distinguished by its attractive grain and warm, woody colour. 

360° Channeling Goodyear Welted

In 360° Channeling welted Goodyear, we use the same full substance (5mm to 6mm) leather bends as bespoke shoe making and create a channel by slitting open the edge of the insole.

The thicker insole in more comfortable and the break-in period of the shoe is shorter.