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Bridlen

Wholecut Oxford - Tan Museum Calf - Deus Last - MTO

Wholecut Oxford - Tan Museum Calf - Deus Last - MTO

$355.00 USD
$355.00 USD
Sale Sold out
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Spring Discount: Buy 1 Bridlen Shoe, get 10% off;
Buy +2 Bridlen Shoes, get 15% off - Through June 7th

Please Note: Bridlen shoes are labeled in UK Sizing which is one size different than US sizing. For Example: UK8 = US9

The Tan Museum Calf wholecut oxford is minimal by design, which means the shape, leather, and finishing all matter that much more. The museum calf adds depth and movement to the upper, giving the model more life than a flat calfskin finish. Built on the Deus Last, it keeps the proportions intentional and true to the model.

Specifications

Upper leather : Museum Calf 

Lining leather : Drum dyed crust 

Insole : Flexible 5 mm channeled vegetable tanned leather

Outsole : Closed channeled flexible leather

Insole and Outsole leathers are made in Tuscany, Italy by traditional slow chestnut pit tanning method

Last : Deus

Construction : 360° channeled welted Goodyear

Sizing Info

The Deus Last, according to Bridlen:

The Deus is our most assertive last, defined by a classic square toe and deep, elegant curves. Sculpted for refined, structured styles, it embodies confidence without excess. Best showcased in the Wholecut Oxford, the Deus highlights form and craftsmanship in perfect balance.

The Deus fits true to size and offers comfortable forefoot room for regular to generous width feet.

The Shoe Snob's Thoughts:

Length - Elongated
Width – Standard/Generous
Instep – Fitting/Standard
Mid Foot (arch) – Fitting/Standard

I do not recommend sizing down unless you have a narrow foot

Shipping Info

Return Info

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Bridlen RTW Review/Unboxing

360° Channeling insole Goodyear Welted

Leather Channeling

Our shoes are stitched to a leather channel on the insole unlike most factory made shoes where it is stitched to a gemmed cotton rib.

Whole Day Comfort

The thicker insole adds more stability and support to the feet resulting in a more comfortable experience even over an extended period of wear.

Sharp Feather Edge Shape

Compared to a cotton rib, a welt stitched to a leather channel in the insole sits flatter on the shoe giving it a sharper feather edge.

Quicker break-in period

The combination of a thick insole and the welt sitting almost in-line with the insole, reduces the break-in period of the shoe significantly.

What is Goodyear Welted?

With the invention of the goodyear welted machine in 1869, it was now made possible to make robustly constructed shoes in a factory setting. The construction separates the upper from the bottom part of the shoe with a thin strip of leather called the welt that run through the perimeter of the shoe allowing for the sole to be changed without affecting the upper.

A layer of cork paste between the insole and the outsole gives a cushion effect and takes the shape of the feet giving a snug and comfortable fit especially over extended periods of wear.

Since the basis of the construction is longevity and comfort, the materials used are mostly natural and premium quality.

Every Goodyear Welted Shoe goes through over 170 Processes, many of which require extreme precision and skill.

360° Channeling Goodyear Welted

In 360° Channeling welted Goodyear, we use the same full substance (5mm to 6mm) leather bends as bespoke shoe making and create a channel by slitting open the edge of the insole.

The thicker insole in more comfortable and the break-in period of the shoe is shorter.

Features Of Bridlen Goodyear Welted Shoes

  • 3D Attachment

    The upper components are attached together on a last as opposed to on a flat surface. It gives definition of shape to the upper even before the lasting process allowing for lesser pressure needed during lasting. This in turn keeps the natural feeling of the leather intact and gives the overall shoes a more well defined shape.

  • Minimal Adhesives

    The 3D attachments allow for very little and weak adhesives to be used only along the edges keeping the breathability of the premium leathers intact. It allows for the leather to age more naturally over time.

  • Materials

    The seat area fits more snug to the heel as leather board counter is a more breathable and living material adding to a comfortable and good fit. The heels are stacked layer by layer and nailed top-down making for a robust yet clean, premium finish.