How to Care for Suede: Brushing, Cleaning & Refreshing
Suede does not need to be treated as something too fragile to wear. It does benefit from a little attention before dust, flattened nap and small marks become a bigger cleaning job.
Start by looking at what the shoes actually need. A pair that looks dull may need only a brush. A small surface mark may need local treatment. Embedded dirt across the upper calls for a more thorough clean. Those are different jobs, and they do not require the same amount of product.
Start with the least treatment needed
- Dust or flattened nap: begin with gentle dry brushing.
- A small mark on otherwise clean suede: assess it with a suitable suede eraser.
- General dirt that brushing cannot lift: consider a dedicated suede cleaner.
- Grease, dye transfer or a delicate mixed-material shoe: get advice before trying increasingly aggressive treatments.
Check the material first. Suede and nubuck are not smooth calf leather, and the creams and waxes used to shine dress shoes are not the right products for their raised surface. Special coatings, trims and unusual finishes may also change what you can safely use.
1. Brush dry suede gently
Start when the shoes are dry. Remove loose dirt with light strokes, working gradually over the upper rather than scrubbing one patch. Look at how the nap changes as you brush: some apparent color differences come from the fibers lying in different directions.
The Saphir Brass Suede Brush combines fine brass with surrounding bristles. Use minimal pressure and test the action on a discreet area first. Let the bristles do the work. A firmer tool does not mean you should push harder.
Brushes used for smooth-leather polish should stay separate. You do not want to transfer wax or colored cream into the suede while trying to clean it.
2. Treat a small mark locally
For a surface mark, Saphir Gommadin offers a dry-cleaning step before deciding to wash the shoe. Test it first, then rub the affected area with controlled, moderate pressure. Brush away the eraser residue and reassess the result.
Do not keep grinding away at the same mark simply because it has not disappeared immediately. A change in texture is a reason to stop. An eraser can help loosen surface dirt; it cannot promise to undo every stain or replace material that has been damaged.
3. Clean more thoroughly when needed
Saphir Médaille d’Or Omninettoyant and Saphir Beauté du Cuir Omnidaim are two dedicated cleaning options. Choose one suited to the item and follow its directions. They are alternatives, not two compulsory stages in the same routine.
For Omninettoyant, Saphir directs you to remove loose dirt first, apply with the supplied brush, then rinse the brush and work over the surface again to remove dirt and foam. Its instructions allow use neat or with up to 50% water and recommend cleaning the entire item rather than leaving an isolated washed patch. Test a less-visible area before proceeding.
Omnidaim has its own directions: apply with its brush, rinse the brush and work again until the foam has been removed, then allow the item to dry. Do not assume the dilution or drying guidance for one cleaner automatically applies to the other.
4. Let the shoes dry, then restore the nap
Keep the shoes away from direct sunlight and heat while drying. Do not speed the process up with a radiator or hair dryer. Omninettoyant’s current directions specify six hours away from heat and sunlight; if the shoes are still damp, wait until they are dry before brushing.
Once dry, brush gently to lift and even the nap. Assess the color in normal light before deciding more treatment is necessary. Cleaner removes dirt; it should not be treated as a guaranteed recoloring product.
Keep the routine manageable
Regular light brushing is easier than allowing dirt to build up and then attempting a major restoration. You do not need to wash, recolor and spray the shoes after every wear. Choose further treatment only when the material and its condition call for it.
My earlier suede video shows how brushing can refresh a tired-looking pair. It also demonstrates more advanced restoration methods. For a first attempt, stick to the gentler routine above rather than copying steam or abrasive work without understanding the material.
See the original suede-restoration article, or explore our Suede & Nubuck Care collection to choose the brush, eraser or cleaner that fits the task.